My trip to Rio

[Mike_M]

I've been wanting to share my experiences to pay back a little for all the great inspiration I received from all of you. I've kept putting it off (it was in November! I'm a world class procrastinator). Reading Mavica's posts this week has spurred me into action. His planning process sounds like a lot of fun and brought back memories.

 

I took a lot from all of you, but then went on with my own agenda. First of all, my resources are pretty limited, so my goal was to make it as economical as possible. My second goal was to try as much as possible to get as close to a "native" experience as possible. My trip last year was to Santo Domingo, Rep.Dom. That trip I found a listing of a guy in the colonial zone who had a room in his apartment to rent and I experienced one of the most fun trips of my life. I wanted this trip to be as fun and successful.

 

To achieve these results I researched a lot and undertook the study of Portuguese (using BARRON'S and PIMSLEUR systems, both were useful). By the way, I travelled once earlier to Brasil in 1976, so I expected everything to be different, that is what I could still remember. I decided to choose an area that was not as touristy. The last time I stayed at the Nacional in Gavea (now defunct) and the Hotel Vermont in Ipanema, still going strong and still a good bargain. After a lot of research, I chose to stay this time in the Catete area, closer to downtown. It's a beautiful old, pre-war era neighborhood that was the aristocratic area before the tunnels to the Atlantic beaches were built. The old presidential palace where Vargas took his own life is the centerpiece of the area, with one of the nicest gardens, which conveniently has a decent little outdoor restaurant. The hotel I chose was the Hotel Imperial, accross the street from the palace which quoted a rate of about $30 on their website. I made the res, but never heard back from them. When I arrived at the airport I avoided the hustling cab drivers greeting me out of the arrival gate (my last trip began with a very nasty experience with them) and went to the government tourist office desk. I learned about them my last trip. Every airport and train or bus station in the country is supposed to have one. At that time I travelled all over the country and always went first to them. You tell them the type of hotel you're looking for and they will call them and secure the room for you on the spot. So, this time I went to them for information on getting one of the busses I had read about that go by the hotels and only cost about $5. The guy asked if I had securred a hotel and when I told him I was a little uncertain he called the Imperial for me. They had no record of me ever writing them but had no problem giving me a room for about $35. He said he thought I could do much better and called the Hotel Regina located just down the street and got me a pretty decent room at R77 a night, less than $20! So I was off to a good start. There is a beach a block or so from the hotel, Flamingo Beach. The water is on the bay and not recommended for swimming, although local children were swimming there. It is however a nice beach and park and, I'm told, with an active night cruising scene, very AYOR.

 

My next goal, for the native contact was provided by a delightful member of this community, Gringo, whom many of you problably know from his occassional postings here. As you my have seen from his postings he is a outgoing, gregarious fellow with a lot of experience with the "off-the-beaten-path" gay scene in Rio. He introduced me to some very nice local gay guys and took me around to some street cruising scenes: Campo Santana, Cinelandia, and the best of all, Friday nights in Lapa, a totally outrageous, not totally gay outdoor club scene.

 

I'd like to go into more detail, but it's late and this will be too long to read anyway. I mostly wanted to let folks know there are other approaches to Rio and especially alert you to that wonderful service by the government sponsered tourist service at the airport. They're right outside the arrival gate to the right of all the taxi hawkers. I'll try to continue this another time and answer any questions you may have.

[Guest Gringo]

Glad you finally got around to sharing some of your impressions. Those were heady adventures we had. Gosh it seems so long ago, almost like a dream. I'm going back next month, after carnavale. Seems alot of our friends here will also be traveling this spring. You ready to go again?;-)

[Luv2play]

I enjoyed your first installment and hope to hear more soon.:-)

[trilingual]

Likewise! The scene in Brazil is vast, and it's really great to hear about recent experiences with other aspects besides the saunas. Do go into some of the juicy details!

 

I agree that it's a bad idea to go with one of the taxi touts at the airport (and not just in Brazil!). The "executivo" bus you mentioned is a possibility, and so are the taxi voucher booths in the airport arrivals lobby. Although it isn't the cheapest way into town, the pre-paid taxis are probably the safest and most convenient, and you can usually charge the fare on your credit card.

 

In some cities, similar taxi booths operate in the intercity bus stations, which are sometimes located a long way out from the city center. They definitely have such taxi booths in Rio's bus station, and they're highly recommended because the Rio bus terminal is in a very dicey neighborhood.

[+ Axiom2001]

Yes, yes!! I completely concur with Luv2...'s statements. As an M4M Message Center Junkie, I guess I will be slightly cured from coming here each day once my experiences have been satiated and fulfilled in that second land "down under" when I return in 24 days and again in April of 2003, for a month!

 

Thanks again, Mike, for sharing, and I, too, await the rest of your unique adventures!

[Mike_M]

RE: My trip to Rio; Part 2

 

To expand a little on my experiences with Catete and the Hotel Regina, just what was the hotel like for $20/nt? Well, not very big or fancy but comfortable and adequate. Good air conditioning, strong, hot shower, safe in room, frigobar - so just about all the things you need - no view or much light from the window which opened into a small courtyard. Breakfast was included and was huge and varied. So, I think it was a great deal. The bed and pillow were not the most comfortable I've ever experienced. I never tried to bring home a trick, so I don't know what their reaction would be. I was pretty alarmed with the warnings I had read about here and elsewhere and decided I would just plan to use the saunas and motels.

 

Catete is a great neighborhood and I strongly recommend it. It is very mixed economically and I saw several aparently gay guys around the area. Seems to have a pretty hip, sophisticated feel to it. On the one weekend I spent there, there were singers and bands playing on the street. There is also a subway stop right there. I didn't see any of the dangerous looking hustlers or grifters hanging around like you see in Copacabana. The traffic also moves more slowly through the neighborhood. A few blocks down Rua Catete toward Gloria, the next neighborhood on the way to Centro, you run into a great kilo restaurant named, interestingly enough, Estaçao. Another few blocks and you're at the street where 117 is located, only half a block down the street, so it's an easy and safe walk, although the street 117 is on looks a little dark and deserted, especially when you leave late.

 

I didn't find Rio especially a great city for street cruising. The areas that Gringo took me to had very few guys and too scruffy looking for my tastes. Campo Santana was the prettiest of the places, but I wasn't impressed with the guys there and not very safe feeling. I don't think I would be safe there by myself. Also, I don't feel that Brazilians are much into public cruising. They strike me as being much more reserved and careful of their behavior in public when compared to other latin americans - very little eye play, they seem to look forward and avoid your gaze. Even when a pretty girl would go by, they would be a lot more discreet and reserved in their reaction, certainly compared to the Carribean guys I'm used to.

 

So, it was on to the baths. I went to 117, Estaçao and Spa 73. The last being my favorite, as I've noted in another posting. I found the guys the sweetest, warmest and seemingly most interested in really having a meaningful encounter with you. Although not as many to choose from, I thought the caliber was every bit as good as the other saunas. The desk, always manned by one or two women, were also personable and always helpful. Not that I ever experienced a problem at either of the other clubs. I was always amazed that after all the drinks and snacks and cabine rentals that the bill was always so small. I don't think they charge anymore for a beer or soda than you would pay in a market. The boys I encountered in the other clubs were also sweet and eager to please, I just felt at Spa 73 it was always a little more personal. It is devilishly hard to find, which I'm grateful for - it'll keep it unspoiled, although that neighborhood will never draw many tourists, it will always be mostly locals, probably.

 

My other big obsession with Brazil is with the music. I discovered lots of artists I didn't know before, saw Maria Bethania live in concert on the beach in Copacabana and bought a ton of CDs. I almost cried at the gate when leaving - eight days is just too short. Gringo, to answer your question, I hope I can get back this spring, but it probably won't be until April and then only if I clear up a lot of apartment and job issues that I sort of have to deal with. I recommend Gringo as a travel companion to all of you. He's a big guy with a big heart and personality and engages the Brasilians to come out of those reserved little shells they have, and he really knows his way around.

[Guest Gringo]

RE: My trip to Rio; Part 2

 

Thanks Mike. Keep me posted, I'll be there in April.

[Guest Deweywop]

RE: My trip to Rio; Part 2

 

"I didn't find Rio especially a great city for street

cruising."

 

This was also my impression, leaving me a little disappointed.

 

"They strike me as being much more

reserved and careful of their behavior in public when

compared to other latin americans - very little eye play,

they seem to look forward and avoid your gaze. Even when a

pretty girl would go by, they would be a lot more discreet

and reserved in their reaction, certainly compared to the

Carribean guys I'm used to."

 

Funny, I was struck and surprised by this exact same observation. This was strange, since the Brazilians I've met elsewhere while traveling were extremely gregarious. Once in Europe, I was practically run down by three Brazilians who made me join them at their table in a restaurant. I guess I was expecting more of this kind of reaction in Brazil, which I rarely saw. On the other hand, the effusive friendliness like you get in some Arab countries could get exhausting.

 

However, I think if the Brazilians are given some formal chance to interact with you, they will and very warmly. A couple places during my trip, I decided to stay at youth hostels. I'd really tired of this style of traveling, but I suspect other people at the hostels were there for the same reason I was - to meet other travelers (socially). In Floripa, there was a big Brazilian group at the hostel, and they became extremely warm, chummy, and informal with the foreigners. It was then that I confirmed what someone told me: Brazilians seem always to be in a huge pack. I was told being alone, perhaps including traveling alone, as I was, was considered strange and a little sad to the Brazilians, and they don't really know what to do with it. Perhaps they're less apt to approach solo travelers like myself. When I was going around in Ouro Preto with an English boy I'd met there, suddenly all sorts of people (lots of girls and their very drunk, very queeny friend) were approaching us. I guess they just believe in the buddy system.

[catnip]

RE: My trip to Rio; Part 2

 

This is a great thread and I'm loving your posts, Mike! I'm off to Rio in just 3 weeks, studying Portugese like mad and trying to get as ready as I can - though I know that I'll still be awestruck and tongue-tied once I'm there. Looking forward to hearing more (especially since I can't seem to uncover the Archives).

 

Thanks,

[+ Axiom2001]

RE: My trip to Rio; Part 2

 

Catnip-- under Needtraing's thread/responses-- "Where Art Thou Archives". "Daddy" responded by telling us how to access those little 'ives. It's simple but it will require a lot of pages to read! I found some of my previous questions and the accompanying responses. Smiles came to my lips as well as some loud laughter. THought I'd respond based on what you wrote!

 

We might encounter each other, for it is just about three weeks that my good friend and I will be in Rio, too.